Raw Milk a Tasty Treat?
Friend and food blogger Jacob Grier has a great piece in Reason on the waning legality of raw milk.
[Pasteurized] milk resulted in the loss of seasonality and taste. Cooking milk introduces new flavors, some of them unpleasant. And since pasteurization kills bacteria indiscriminately, many raw milk devotees argue that the process robs them of probiotics, bacteria that they say build their immune systems and aid digestion. As McAfee put it to me, “kids are germ magnets.” Exposing them to raw milk, he argues, is good for them. Similarly, the testimonials section on the website of the Campaign for Real Milk, a project of the Weston A. Price Foundation that aims to overturn legal barriers to unpasteurized milk, is full of quotes from people writing that the product has cured them of everything from indigestion to autism. While some of these claims are obviously far-fetched, it’s clear that many raw milk drinkers believe they benefit from introducing a thriving population of bacteria into their bodies.
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When I recently visited dairywoman Kitty Hockman-Nicholas at Hedgebrook Farms in Winchester, Virginia, I saw nothing dangerous or diabolical. Kitty showed me around the farm, introduced her cows by name, and demonstrated her milking process. It would have been illegal for Kitty to sell me raw milk—she provides it for people who buy into “cow shares” and thus technically own the cows from which they get their dairy—but she kindly sent me home with some as a gift.
My trip to the farm provided delightful insight into the origins of one of our most essential foods. I didn’t enjoy any miraculous health effects after drinking it, but the taste was smooth and creamy, with none of the processed aftertaste I now can’t help noticing in store-bought milk. As I sipped my unpasteurized beverage, I reflected on the absurdity of the situation: If Kitty were to offer the same experience to others for a profit, the government could forcibly put her out of business.
Campaign for Raw Milk here. Time on raw milk outlaws here. Raw milk opponent Stephen Barrett on why raw milk doesn’t do a body good here.
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JD Burke